Presentation Schedule
National Identity and Multiculturalism in Fashion: Case Study: IA – the Traditional Romanian Blouse (104505)
Session Chair: Haozhen Xu
This presentation will be live-streamed via Zoom (Online Access)
Wednesday, 13 May 2026 12:55
Session: Session 2
Room: Live-Stream Room 1
Presentation Type: Live-Stream Presentation
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This paper examines the philosophy of perception and the construction of national identity through traditional clothing, focusing on the Romanian traditional blouse, the "ia" as a case study. This study employs a multidisciplinary approach that integrates visual and iconographic analysis of artistic representations, cultural anthropology, contemporary media analysis of cultural appropriation debates and discourse analysis of political and cultural texts. The current research traces the ia's evolving symbolic functions across distinct phases: a mystical relationship between man and nature - in embroidered patterns; a medium of social cohesion - facilitating community bonds through shared aesthetic practices; a political instrument, deployed in visual arts to forge and disseminate national identity; object of visual exoticism - exemplified by Henri Matisse's creative interpretations; its adoption by international high fashion, prompting interventions by cultural heritage organizations and NGOs on cultural appropriation. Material objects can easily become vehicles for identity negotiation in contemporary culture. Consequently, through an extended examination, this paper interrogates whether the current revival of traditional clothing represents a visual articulation of identity-in-diversity discourse or a form of cultural resistance against homogenizing globalization.
Authors:
Ioana Ciocoiu, University of Bucharest, Romania
About the Presenter(s)
She is Deputy Manager of the Consignment Department of Artmark Auction House and a project based collaborator for Art Safari. Her interests regard contemporary art, philosophy culture and recent history.
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